You’ve moved the mattress, stripped the sheets, and now you’re staring at that Leirvik frame with a hex key and a sinking feeling. The headboard alone seems too wide for the stairwell, and you’re pretty sure the side rails are held together by spite and a few dozen screws. I’ve been there. The good news is that this frame comes apart in a logical order, and once you know which bolts do what, the whole job takes about 30 minutes with the right tools.
This guide walks you through the exact disassembly sequence for the IKEA Leirvik bed frame, including the tools you actually need, how to handle the tricky center support beam, and what to do when a screw won’t budge. You’ll walk away knowing how to break it down into flat, carryable pieces without damaging the cam locks or the particleboard panels.
Before you start wrenching, consider grabbing a bed frame guide if you’re planning to replace this one. For now, let’s get this thing apart.
One quick side note: while you’re dealing with the heavy lifting, a tool like the CNARIO Mattress Lifter & Bed Maker Tool Set (ASIN B0GSVKCXLK) makes the initial step of removing the mattress far less painful. It’s a two-piece kit with a wedge-shaped lifter and a separate sheet tucker, both carved from acacia wood. You slide the lifter under the mattress edge, tilt, and the mattress lifts enough to grab it. It won’t help with the frame itself, but it saves your lower back during the first and last steps of this project.
Tools You’ll Need (And One You Should Skip)
The Leirvik uses a mix of hex bolts and cross-head screws. Most of the structural connections rely on a 4mm hex key, which IKEA includes in the box. That tiny key works, but your hands will hate you after the tenth bolt. Use a proper hex bit on a ratchet or a screwdriver handle instead. It’s faster and you’ll strip fewer heads.
- Phillips head screwdriver – for the plastic screw covers and the small screws on the side rail brackets.
- 4mm hex bit or Allen key – for the main bolts on the headboard, footboard, and side rails.
- Rubber mallet – for tapping stuck panels loose. A regular hammer works if you put a cloth between the metal and the wood.
- Magnetic parts tray – you will lose a screw otherwise. Every time.
Skip the power drill with a hex bit unless you’re confident with the clutch setting. The Leirvik’s bolts are soft steel, and a drill at full torque will round the heads instantly. Set the clutch to a low number if you insist on using one.
Step-by-Step Disassembly: From Full Bed to Flat Pack
Work in this order. It prevents the frame from collapsing on you mid-project.
Step 1: Strip the Bedding and Mattress
Remove everything. If the mattress is heavy, lift one corner at a time and slide it off the frame onto the floor. Lean it against a wall. The slats stay on the frame for now – they actually help keep the structure rigid while you work.
Step 2: Remove the Slats and Center Support Beam
Flip the mattress aside and look at the slats. They’re curved wooden pieces that sit across the frame. Each one just lifts out – there are no screws holding them. Pull them all out and stack them flat. The center support beam runs lengthwise down the middle. It’s held in place by two metal brackets at the headboard and footboard ends. Look for a small locking tab or a screw on each bracket. Loosen those, then lift the beam straight up. Set it aside.
Step 3: Detach the Side Rails from the Headboard
This is where the hex bolts come in. Each side rail connects to the headboard with two bolts, usually accessed from the inside of the frame. Use your hex bit to turn them counterclockwise. They’ll be tight – IKEA uses a locking compound on the threads. Once both bolts are out, the side rail will still feel attached because of the metal bracket. Pull the rail toward the center of the bed, then lift it off the bracket pins. Repeat on the other side.
Step 4: Detach the Side Rails from the Footboard
Same process, but the footboard is shorter, so you’ll be working closer to the floor. Get a knee pad or sit on the floor for this part. Remove the two hex bolts on each side, then pull the rails inward and off the pins.
Step 5: Remove the Plastic Screw Covers and the Headboard Bolts
On the headboard and footboard, you’ll see small plastic caps covering the holes where the side rails connected. Pop those off with a flathead screwdriver. Underneath are the bolts that hold the headboard panels to the legs. Remove those bolts. The headboard should now separate into two pieces: the main panel and the two legs. Same for the footboard.
Step 6: Disassemble the Center Support Brackets (Optional)
If you’re moving the frame to a new room, you can leave the center support brackets attached to the headboard and footboard. They’re small and don’t add much bulk. If you’re storing the frame flat, remove them with a Phillips screwdriver to avoid bending them.
Common Problems and How to Handle Them
Stripped screws happen. The Leirvik’s particleboard is soft, and the cam locks can spin free if over-tightened. Here’s what to do when things go wrong.
The hex bolt spins but won’t come out. This means the threads are stripped inside the wood. Grab the bolt head with pliers and pull outward while turning. The bolt will come out, but the hole is now useless. When you reassemble, use a slightly thicker screw or add wood glue and a wooden dowel to fill the hole first.
The cam lock is spinning. The cam lock is the round metal disc with a slot on the side. If it spins freely, the internal mechanism has failed. Use a flathead screwdriver to turn the slot fully counterclockwise, then pull the locking pin out with pliers. You’ll need a replacement cam lock, which you can order from IKEA’s spare parts page.
Panels are stuck together. The Leirvik uses a dowel-and-glue joint on some of the leg connections. If you’ve removed all visible screws and the panel still won’t budge, tap the joint with a rubber mallet. Hit the leg near the connection point, not the panel face. If it still won’t move, there’s a hidden screw you missed. Check the underside of the rail and the inside of the leg bracket.
One thing I’ve noticed across several Leirvik disassemblies: the bolts on the footboard are often tighter than the headboard ones. I don’t know if it’s assembly order or just how people lean on the foot of the bed, but expect more resistance there.
Comparing Disassembly Methods: Full Teardown vs. Partial
You don’t always need to take the frame down to every single piece. Here’s a quick comparison to help you decide how far to go.
| Method | Time | Best For | Tools Needed | Risk of Damage |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Full teardown (all bolts out) | 30-40 minutes | Moving to a new home, storing flat | Hex bit, Phillips screwdriver, mallet | Low if careful; high if you rush cam locks |
| Partial (remove slats, rails, leave headboard/footboard assembled) | 15-20 minutes | Moving within same building, fitting through a wide door | Hex bit only | Very low – fewer connections to strip |
| Quick fold (if you have the older model with folding rails) | 5 minutes | Only if your specific Leirvik has this feature – most don’t | None | Medium – hinges can bend if forced |
The partial method works well if you’re moving the bed to another room on the same floor. The assembled headboard is roughly 65 inches wide, which fits through most standard interior doors (usually 30-36 inches) if you angle it. The full teardown is for when you’re loading a car or a moving truck and need every piece flat.
Reassembly Tips (Because You Will Put It Back Together)
You’re taking this apart for a reason, and eventually, it goes back up. Keep the bolts grouped by location. I use a muffin tin – one cup for headboard bolts, one for footboard bolts, one for side rails. Label them with masking tape if you’re doing this after a move.
When reassembling, don’t fully tighten any bolt until all bolts in that joint are started. Snug them all down, then go back and tighten completely. This prevents the particleboard from cracking under uneven pressure. Also, the cam locks need to be in the open position (slot aligned with the arrow) before you insert the locking pin. If you force the pin in with the cam closed, you’ll strip the cam.
If you’re replacing the frame entirely, take a look at this bed frame repair guide to see if your existing one is worth salvaging before you buy something new. And if you’re moving the frame, this proven folding method works for several IKEA models, though the Leirvik is not a true folding frame.
Questions People Ask About the Leirvik Disassembly
Do I need to remove the slats before the side rails?
Yes. The slats sit on top of the side rails and the center beam. If you try to remove the rails first, the slats will fall into the gap and jam. Pull all slats out first, then the center beam, then the rails.
What size hex key does the Leirvik use?
Most Leirvik frames use a 4mm hex key for the main structural bolts. Some newer production runs use a 5mm for the headboard bolts. Check the head of the bolt before you start – a 4mm key should fit snugly. If it rattles, try the 5mm.
Can I disassemble the Leirvik by myself?
Yes, but the headboard and footboard panels are awkward. They’re heavy and unbalanced. You can manage the bolts solo, but you’ll want a second person to lift the panels off the legs and carry them. The side rails are manageable alone – each one weighs about 12-15 pounds.
What if a cam lock is stripped and won’t turn?
Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to grip the outer edge of the cam lock and turn it. If the slot is completely rounded out, drill a small pilot hole into the cam and use a screw extractor. Worst case, you order a replacement cam lock from IKEA – they’re a standard size and cost a few dollars.
Is it easier to move the Leirvik fully assembled?
No. The frame is not rigid enough to carry assembled without risk of twisting the particleboard. The headboard and footboard will flex and the cam locks can pop loose. Always disassemble at least down to the side rails before moving it more than a few feet.
What to Do With All Those Parts
Keep the hardware in a labeled ziplock bag taped to the underside of the headboard panel. That way, when you reassemble in six months, you’re not hunting for a single hex bolt. The slats should be stacked flat with a piece of cardboard between each one to prevent warping. The center beam can be leaned against a wall, but don’t rest it on its ends – the brackets are thin metal and will bend.
If you’re disposing of the frame, check if your local recycling center takes particleboard. Most don’t. But the metal brackets and bolts are scrap metal, and the wood slats can be repurposed for a garden project or firewood (if they’re untreated). The particleboard panels are the tricky part – they’re often not accepted at curbside pickup. Check your local waste management rules.
One last thing: before you start, take a photo of the assembled frame from a few angles. It sounds silly, but when you’re putting it back together and can’t remember which way the center beam faces, that photo will save you twenty minutes of trial and error.
- Work in order: slats, center beam, side rails, then headboard and footboard panels.
- Use a 4mm hex bit on a ratchet, not the tiny included key.
- Keep bolts grouped by location – a muffin tin or labeled baggies work well.
- Tap stuck joints with a rubber mallet, never a metal hammer directly on the panel.
- Don’t force a cam lock. If it spins, replace it before you reassemble.
- Take a photo of the frame before disassembly to guide reassembly.
- Store the hardware taped to the headboard panel so it doesn’t get lost.
